Let's Make Robots!

"Wild Thumper" 6WD all terrain robot chassis


Vendor's Description: 


It's Here! Now with Video of it in Action on dirt using 34:1 gearboxes and new videos going down and up stairs and over snow with 75:1 gearboxes.

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Now available in silver!

Designed originally here on LMR specifically for robots, this 6WD chassis has wicked spiked 120mm dia. wheels and an anodized aluminium chassis made from 2mm thick plate. The chassis has 4mm dia. holes punched every 10mm to allow easy mounting of PCBs, servos etc. All nuts, bolts and screws are stainless steel. Brass fittings and suspension springs are nickel plated.

Two chassis segments between the wheels have been designed to hold 7.2V sub C battery packs (not included) as used in many RC cars. A total of 4x 7.2V battery packs can be fitted if necessary. These batteries are ideal for driving the 6V motors as well as inexpensive linear regulators to supply 5V.

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These photos show how even with one wheel resting on a large LMR mug (115mm high) all wheels are still touching the ground. It may not be a rock crawler but that's awesome for an off the shelf robot chassis.

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Ground clearance with the suspension lightly loaded is 60mm which is almost half of the total 130mm height when the topdeck is mounted on 25mm spacers.

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As you can see in this photo, with the top deck fitted you have a smooth deck to mount equipment on even when the chassis is flexed. Mounted on brass hex spacers, the top deck gives you room underneath to hide cables and PCBs to give your robot a cleaner more proffesional finish.

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The suspension for the front and rear is a single torsion spring. As the motor housings are connected to each other and not the chassis the front and rear can roll freely with the spring supporting weight and absorbing shock.

The steel cable is used to limit spring travel. The motor housings have 3 holes for each allowing spring tension and travel adjusment depending on the weight of the robot. Rubber grommets are fitted in the spring mounts to eliminate play while allowing the motor housing to roll.

The center suspension is similar but has 2 springs. Each spring connects from the motor housing to the chassis keeping the robot upright.

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The 6 powerful geared motors have steel gears and are fitted with powerful magnets to provide high torque. Top speed is about 6.6km/hr. These motors have a maximum stall current of 5.5A each so with 3 motors per side wired in parallel a dual "H" bridge rated for at least 17A per channel is required.

Rated voltage: 6V DC (min. 2V Max. 7.5V)
Stall current maximum 5.5A
No load current per motor is 350mA
Motor RPM is 10000 +/- 5%
Gearbox ratio is 34:1
Output shaft speed is 295rpm +/- 5%
Stall torque is 4Kg/cm

A 75:1 gearbox is now available!
This gives a top speed of about 3Km/hr and a massive stall torque of 8.8Kg/cm per wheel!!!

The chassis comes pre-assembled and weights 2.6Kg. Shipping cost to America or Europe will be approximately $48 USD.

Now available in 2 colour schemes:
Black with metallic red rims
Silver with chrome rims

Here is a preview of the 4WD version:

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It works now!
I've installed 4mm² wires and a 7.4v 2s 5000mAh battery and now it works great!

Most of us are used to using little motors and not worrying about the size of the wire used but these days most robots draw quite a bit of current, especially if they use lots of servos.

Now the size/quality of the batteries and the size of the power wires becomes an important factor.

Thank you for helping me!

I'll search for a thicker wire then, but it will be hard to get the thicker wires in the terminals.

I use the Wild Thumper High Current Switch, so that is a good one.

Thank you for helping me.

I'm using 2,2 square mm wires, isn't that enough?

Maybe it's not a good idea to change the voltage value in the code, as the bootloader can get corrupted, like you said.

So this is what I'm going to try:

- Use thicker wires(only if 2,2 square mm isn't enough)
- Try a lipo battery
- If that doesn't work, I'll look for other tires.

I'll keep you updated.

 

 

Hello,

I received my Wild Thumper 6WD a week ago, and i'm very happy of it!

Although, I have an annoying problem:

When I drive over the grass in my garden, and I turn left or right, then the Wild Thumper stops working;
the control over it has gone, and I need to disconnect and reconnect the battery to make it work again.
The Wild Thumper Motor Controller and my receiver doesn't go off, I just lose controls.

Is this because my 8.4V 4600mAh NiMh battery is to weak? Should a LiPo battery fix this problem?

The turning is by turning the wheels in opposite direction. So this problem only happens when I spin, but not when making a smooth turn.
And, the spinning works on flat surfaces. It only has problems on grass and other not-flat surfaces.

Can someone help me, please?

EDIT: I just saw that when the controls stop working, the battery led went off(led 5)on the WP motor controller. So it has probably something to do with the battery. I've tried about 5 different NiMh battery's, and all no luck.

 

Hi,

Here's a couple of real short videos of, and then from, my FPV Thumper:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noA4zkPTLU8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06lgzyAI164

Cheers,

Colin

I love the compass HUD. Got dizzy watching the second video :D

P.S. Your mother asked me to tell you she wants you to put the picture back up on the wall.

Hello

I want to mount a 10" laptop and a kinect to this chassis. So is it possible to get a wider/longer metal covering for this chasis or simply wider/longer chassis?

Is this chassis VEX friendly, another words: is the distance between the holes in this chassis is the same as in the VEX?

What are the best batteries for this chassis?

Thanks in advance.

The chassis is modular so if you buy 2 of them you can re-combine the parts to make it bigger.

I do not know what spacing VEX uses. I have never seen their stuff before. The holes on the chassis are 10mm apart. Assuming that VEX is still the old, imperial measurement system then 2inches is aproximately 50mm so you should be able to match every 5th hole. If VEX is not imperial then you should have much better alignment of holes.