Let's Make Robots!

V3 - Borg it is!

Hi all!

Here is quick rendering on how V3 will lokk like :) Almost finished the design, still little things to take care of, I can start cutting soon.

 

Has a Borg feeling to it :D 

 


Update - Z-axis

Or how to get from this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 To this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

He he :)

 


24 Aug 2010 - Hell it's been like 6 months?!

Madrid came and gone, it was bliss, but the Valkyrie never really recovered from the long trip.

The aluminium rails were all knocked up, the wooden parts all a mess even from before leaving, I guess my packing on the way back was real bad.

I did replace what I could and had it mounted though, at least I could have something to play with.

But then things got from bad to worse. The drivers failed as I supplied them with 24V in my greed for more, mooore *power*. It should have worked and to date I did not go after the real cause, so I have no clue why they failed. 

Since I had enough bug hunting on the drivers in Madrid, and the parts are fairly expensive especially the L297 chip (why is this thing so expensive anyway?! Almost 8 bucks ... for what?), I have decided not to rebuild/revive them.

Then I have found a different chip to use as a replacement for the l297/l298 combo, TEA3718. This guy is a lot cheaper and a pair of those can drive a stepper motor drawing up to about 2.5 - 2.8 A (1,2 - 1.4 A per coil). Paired with a ATTiny2313 (yeah I love those little guys) and there is my new driver (I'll have a special blog on that one) 

Of course the new drivers had (maybe still have I'm still testing them) their share of problems, but now they finally seem to do their job. Fixing the problems with the drivers included breaking one of my Arduinos for good, the other is not in a very good state either, so I started wondering if the problems I had was with the drivers or the Arduino's . 

So to eliminate any Arduino issue I have built a Linux machine to run EMC2 and I'm now able to control the Valkyrie with it :) I must now agree with http://letsmakerobots.com/sites/default/themes/bee3/lmr/images/lmr_colla...);background-position:0% 50%;" href="http://letsmakerobots.com/user/10261">daniel79 realtime Linux seems to be working great, and having a nice UI to control the machine does have it's niceness too ;)

Back to the mechanical part, before Madrid I did manage to cut about half the parts required for V3 before I started running out of material, tools and got a little crazy ... so basically I already had the parts for the Z-Axis and the Y-Axis. Basically I have a half of V3 built but no X-Axis/table for it. Slowly an idea started to hunt me: What if I would use the X-Axis of the old machine to mount the new V3 parts on it?  

Now since the heat started to let go on Romania and my building mojo is starting to return to me, I dug out all the little parts and started to mount them together, finishing them up and applying a little correction here and there with the file, so I have a new shiny Z-Axis, a new shiny Y-Axis.  I have already stripped off the old axises from the machine and I'm preparing to mount the new in.  

So here we are after 6 months (so much time!) with an almost new machine, with new drivers, with a new control system, and a new rotary tool the industrial graded Proxxon IB/E ... yey!   More to come ... stay tuned..


26-Aug-2010 - Assimilation in progress ... Resistance is futile

Yup the new Y-Z assembly is complete and adapted to the old table, still needs some love but looks great so far, will post pictures in the evening.

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Wondering why don't you use MDF for your contruction, would be very clean and solid. just an advice:)

... It is not easily available for me :)

... BORG it is!

since you connected both sides of the gantry under the table i'm assuming that you are going to drive it with 1 leadscrew in the middle.

i would highly recommend to drive the gantry with 2 leadscrews, 1 on each side of the gantry, like your previous design.

this will greatly improve the accuracy of your machine. this is one of the main reasons why i'm going to replace my commercial machine by a DIY one.

i would also change the angle and orientation of the slots for adjusting the tension of the gantry bottom bearings.

angle: i think you used about 45deg, 10mm horizontaly = 10mm verticaly. 26.57deg would give you 10mm hor = 5mm vert which would make tensioning easier. i used 15deg in my current design,10mm hor = 2.68mm vert.

orientation: move the bearings away from eachother to increase tension instead of towards eachother.

are you going to use the same materials as v2 and what is your working area? 

"since you connected both sides of the gantry under the table i'm assuming that you are going to drive it with 1 leadscrew in the middle."

Yup but with a twist: I'll have both versions prepared:) I have no idea yet how well it would work with one center screw so for the worst case I have added mounts on the sides too. I will see when it's all cut and mounted (... if I ever get it done).

"i would also change the angle and orientation of the slots for adjusting the tension of the gantry bottom bearings.

orientation: move the bearings away from eachother to increase tension instead of towards eachother."

Good point! I'll have a look at both.

"are you going to use the same materials as v2 and what is your working area?"

I'm going to use 7mm thick laminate wood, same material used for floor tiling, laminate parquet. Pretty tough stuff.

Estimated working area 350x260 mm. 

if it is borg it shall need a designation
3 of 3. It is the 3rd of 3 versions :p
:)