Let's Make Robots!

Universal PICAXE Programming Board

Programs your PICAXEs easily

 

I designed this board by myself and I plan to sell it. It can fit the PICAXE 08M - 14M -18x- 20x2 - 28x2.

 

It has switch to turn the power on and keep the reset to 5V. It also has ZIF socket so removing and placing PICAXEs are easy. Really fast if you want to program in a flash.

 

Requires 3AA batteries.

V.1

OUTDATED!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

V2.0

The 4k resistor is connected to power because it's basically the pull up resistor for the reset. I didn't know where to put it because the reset pin on the PICAXE-28 is the same as power for the rest of the chips. So I just connected it to power.

Tell me if there's something wrong with the wiring. It was really hard to incorporate all the chips onto one board! :P

 


 

New Board With Mounting Holes and jumper wire layout.

V2.1

 

 


 

Sorry Chirs. I couldn't make a switch to separate power and the reset. So that's why I put the 4k in the power supply.  I reconfigure the board and most of the stuff should work now.

V3.0

 


 

V3.1

smoothed out some 90 degree turns and eliminated one jumper wire.

After soo many tries. I think I got it!

I had to redo this one more time because I missed 2 connections.

Where it says PICAXE 18. That is a switch that switches the serial in of all the other chips to serial out for the PICAXE-18. It was inconvenient because the PICAXE 18's serial out was the serial in of all the other chips.

I added the resonator for the PICAXE-28.

New power LED

 


V3.2

Thanks for tips from Geir Andersen, I shrunk the board a bit and repositioned some things. It saves space and money!

 


 

V4.0

With about a month of thinking. The Universal PICAXE Programming board is back. This time I have shrunk the board a little. I predict it's about the size of a credit card. What's left is to see if it can work with the 28x2 and the 18 series. I also added in one more SPDT switch that you must flick for the 28x2 in order to set pin1 to the pull up 4.7k resistor.

Hope you guys like this one!

 


 

V4.1

The board has been shrunken. But not that much.

 


 

On the road to becoming a real PCB!


 

Ok. So while I was i bed, I was reminded by the thoughts of many people saying that it's a hassle to pull the PICAXE in and out. So I jumped out of my bed and added a special feature to the board.

So were I marked jumper wire out. There will be ports there. Kinda like these but longer. I will supply these nifty jumper wires. So if you need to program your PICAXE and you don't want to pull it out. Pull out the jumper wires, connect it to the board and the other side to you PICAXE.Great for debugging too.

Please note that when I finish my test board, it might not have this feature because I had this idea after I made the board. :P 

Now it's truly universal in interface.

 


 

Ok, right here I have drilled my holes:

And after many months of planning and designing, the Universal PICAXE Programming Board is finally Complete!!!!

There's a wire across one battery port because I couldn't find a 3AA battery holder. It still works with 6V the same way it works with 4.5. I have tested all the PICAXE's and they do work except for one right now. The 18M is giving me some problems. I have checked everything from settings on the programming to the connections on the board. The only conclusion I can see is that it's defective.


So while testing with the 18M, I found out it wasn't broken, the chip doesn't work when serial signals go into the outputs, So i found out that Output 0 and Output 1 were the culprits. The outputs ruin the serial signal. So I had to add these jumps were you connect and disconnect the path to the outputs. They are were the white boxes are.

So sad, the board got alittle fatter due to the run out of space.

 

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This thing looks pretty cool. I applaud your efforts, and I love that you are building something with tons of input from LMR.

If this board will only be used for programming, I probably wouldn't buy it myself. Too much of a pain for me to remove my PICAXE from a project board and drop it in here everytime it need to be programmed.

On the other hand, a project board that works with the full range of PICAXE chips... that I'd buy in a heartbeat.

Well if you put the PICAXE in a DIP socket and make it in a nice position on your project, it won't be much of a pain.

True, and I don't mean to take away from your efforts. I'm sure many people are OK with removing their Picaxe for programming.

However, since a Picaxe-28 project board costs about $20, and I can program right on it, I wouldn't go for this board.

A universal Picaxe project board would rock, and you are maybe 80% there. ; j

Well actually, people do make projects were the PICAXE is not on the project board and sometimes if you put the PICAXE on the breadboard. So this would be used in that case.

D:

I just ordered some of my own designed PCBs from seeedstudio. I was able to shrink mine down to less than 5cm x 5cm, so i ordered 10 for $20. You could probably get the 10 for $40 as long as it is smaller than 10cm x 10cm which it probably is. http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/open-source-service-prototyping-service-c-64_12.html

 

Thanks for the website. I'll look into it.

Everything looks great. Now all that is left is to get this guy off to the PCB maker and start selling them.

Hold on. I made it smaller. :D

Your reset (switch, not pushbutton?) will not work. You have + going to reset pin no matter what and it is bypassing the pull-up resistor and there is no ground to pull it down. There are many places, when you change to different sized chips, that you have power going into outputs, serial pins connected to ADC's etc. etc. etc. The 22k resistor (part of the download circuit) is misplaced between your 2 sync inputs (headphone jack and 3-pin). There is no current limit resistor on the LED.

Getting closer though.

I still don't understand the jumpers, though. Why do you have any at all? I would rather spend all day redesigning a board rather than have jumpers. Also, I would make this MUCH smaller. You could fit all this on a board 1/4 the size and save a lot of money during fabrication.