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Universal PICAXE Programming Board

Programs your PICAXEs easily

 

I designed this board by myself and I plan to sell it. It can fit the PICAXE 08M - 14M -18x- 20x2 - 28x2.

 

It has switch to turn the power on and keep the reset to 5V. It also has ZIF socket so removing and placing PICAXEs are easy. Really fast if you want to program in a flash.

 

Requires 3AA batteries.

V.1

OUTDATED!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

V2.0

The 4k resistor is connected to power because it's basically the pull up resistor for the reset. I didn't know where to put it because the reset pin on the PICAXE-28 is the same as power for the rest of the chips. So I just connected it to power.

Tell me if there's something wrong with the wiring. It was really hard to incorporate all the chips onto one board! :P

 


 

New Board With Mounting Holes and jumper wire layout.

V2.1

 

 


 

Sorry Chirs. I couldn't make a switch to separate power and the reset. So that's why I put the 4k in the power supply.  I reconfigure the board and most of the stuff should work now.

V3.0

 


 

V3.1

smoothed out some 90 degree turns and eliminated one jumper wire.

After soo many tries. I think I got it!

I had to redo this one more time because I missed 2 connections.

Where it says PICAXE 18. That is a switch that switches the serial in of all the other chips to serial out for the PICAXE-18. It was inconvenient because the PICAXE 18's serial out was the serial in of all the other chips.

I added the resonator for the PICAXE-28.

New power LED

 


V3.2

Thanks for tips from Geir Andersen, I shrunk the board a bit and repositioned some things. It saves space and money!

 


 

V4.0

With about a month of thinking. The Universal PICAXE Programming board is back. This time I have shrunk the board a little. I predict it's about the size of a credit card. What's left is to see if it can work with the 28x2 and the 18 series. I also added in one more SPDT switch that you must flick for the 28x2 in order to set pin1 to the pull up 4.7k resistor.

Hope you guys like this one!

 


 

V4.1

The board has been shrunken. But not that much.

 


 

On the road to becoming a real PCB!


 

Ok. So while I was i bed, I was reminded by the thoughts of many people saying that it's a hassle to pull the PICAXE in and out. So I jumped out of my bed and added a special feature to the board.

So were I marked jumper wire out. There will be ports there. Kinda like these but longer. I will supply these nifty jumper wires. So if you need to program your PICAXE and you don't want to pull it out. Pull out the jumper wires, connect it to the board and the other side to you PICAXE.Great for debugging too.

Please note that when I finish my test board, it might not have this feature because I had this idea after I made the board. :P 

Now it's truly universal in interface.

 


 

Ok, right here I have drilled my holes:

And after many months of planning and designing, the Universal PICAXE Programming Board is finally Complete!!!!

There's a wire across one battery port because I couldn't find a 3AA battery holder. It still works with 6V the same way it works with 4.5. I have tested all the PICAXE's and they do work except for one right now. The 18M is giving me some problems. I have checked everything from settings on the programming to the connections on the board. The only conclusion I can see is that it's defective.


So while testing with the 18M, I found out it wasn't broken, the chip doesn't work when serial signals go into the outputs, So i found out that Output 0 and Output 1 were the culprits. The outputs ruin the serial signal. So I had to add these jumps were you connect and disconnect the path to the outputs. They are were the white boxes are.

So sad, the board got alittle fatter due to the run out of space.

 

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There are somethings I will look too in there. The thing about a current limiting resistor LED is not really needed. The LED doesn't fry under the current. I wasn't really going to put a push button for the reset. I thought you could just turn the board on and off for the reset. The resistor is there to keep the reset pin high for programming. Although if you guys do want a reset push button I could put one in.

The switch is SPDT so there is no + connected to the resistor. It's either full 6V or the reset pull up. I've tested the board with the 20 pin picaxe and the 8 pin picaxe. power going into the outputs and ADC doesn't affect the programming at all. I don't see a problem with the 22k resistor.

. Sorry for the multi post. :p

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Some of the lines could be straightened out a bit.  I agree with the effort to eliminate 90 deg  bends but feel that T-connections still would be ok at 90 deg.
And to be frank, with this small board and only some serial signals going on, you can probably route it anyway you want.
The whole board could probably be built more compact saving you some money or giving you more units.

Things that I would change is;
1) Turn the power LED 180deg and move the 470 resistor and align with the 1k
2) Rotate the power switch 90 deg for a cleaner routing
3) Reconnect the 10k resister (like rotate it 180deg) and move it down to align it with the negative input pole for a straight line

Thanks. I'll do it. But I really can't move the part closer to the ZIF socket because the socket is really big and fat. 

don't have 90º bends, you have some nice bends, but remove all the 90º ones, 

and eliminate the jumpers, i'd rather spend 4 hours editing the layout, than having jumpers...

Got it.

Start with what I mentioned above.