Let's Make Robots!

Robot Baneblade

Navigate by ultrasonic sensors, track targets with moving turret via non-contact temp sensor, "shoot" with LEDs in the guns

A remote-controlled Baneblade for a HSC Software Design and development project, already done by BobPanda, thanks for the inspiration, but now with a little more functionality. This is for a school project, by the way. The idea is to get the tank to navigate by itself through ultrasonics, track body heat with the sensor mounted on a rotating turret (which will be a bitch to program, from what I've heard), and basically look awesome with LED cannons. Also, it can receive commands via an IR sensor, and because my classmate is making a universal remote for his project we can have an RC baneblade. It's very ambitious, but I'm hoping that I can do it and maybe even make it a Golden Daemon entry :-). P.S. sorry for image quality, taken with my iPhone.

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thanks! I'm trying to make it look reasonably ok, but if I can enter it into the Golden Daemon painting contest then so much the better

Well, as I said before, I'm using an SE-10 PIR to detect movement and cause the turret to rove and search for heat sources (targets). However, what do I need to do to connect it, as I have heard that I need a resistor of some sort as it is a "open collector"?

An "open collector" output is a digital output that pulls the line to ground when active - essentially it acts like (and often is) an NPN transistor with the output connected directly to the collector.

To use an open collector output as an input to a microcontroller or other digital input, you need a pull-up resistor to allow the output to go from low (when it's on) to high (when it's off again).
The open collector output acts a lot like a switch, in that when it's inactive the output line is left disconnected, also referred to as an "open" connection. The open connection is left "floating", with no power source driving it to be at a high or low voltage. Floating inputs are highly susceptible to noise and interference, and may result in erratic signals and/or false positive readings.
This is where the pull-up resistor comes in. When the open collector is active, the output is pulled low to ground, with the contribution made by the pull-up resistor (which connects the output to V+ via a high resistance, often 10-20kΩ) being swamped by the strength of the open collector. However when the open collector becomes inactive the pull-up resistor is able to pull the output line up to V+, providing a clean and reliable transition from high to low, which is seen on the microcontroller's digital input.

In short, you connect the output of the PIR to a digital input on your microcontroller, and then you connect a suitable resistor (10-20kΩ if in doubt, the PIR's datasheet may have a recommendation too) from the digital input to V+. Depending on which input you use, you may have pull-up resistors already connected, or you might be able to enable them internally (inside the PICAXE itself).

so that we're all clear about what exactly the end product should look like pending further images/info, here is a link to the RC Baneblade that BobPanda built, and this is where I got the idea from:


His method, I feel, is a little crude, simply ripping the electronics out of a $35 rc tank and sticking them inside the baneblade, but I like what he has done with the LED positioning.

Speaking of which, does anyone have any ideas about mounting a Luxeon Rebel LED in the searchlight?. I only have the actual LED, the tiny little rectangular thing, but what other components do I need to properly mount and use it? I have lost sleep over this, as I really want to use this neat little thing to light up the area and generally look kickass.

Thanks again, you guys have been a great help.

It would help if you posted a link to the LED's data sheet


sorry about that, here it is:


hope that helps

your link is broken, you forgot .pdf . Do you mean this? http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/LED/SMD/COM-09633-DS65.pdf

yes thats it. sorry about that.

Your biggest problem will be good heatsinking for the Rebel LED. Copper is your best thermal conductor. If you cannot mount the LED directly onto a heatsink because it will affect the appearance of your robot then use either thick high quality speaker wire or desoldering braid to link your LED to a nearby heat sink. You want as much copper as possible between your LED and the heatsink to prevent the LED frying.

I like warhammer 40k as-well, I like your idea.