Let's Make Robots!


Follows FSHPC (Fritz' Start Here Posted Code), assists in product placement

UPDATE: This project is closed. I'm using the (working) parts for a new bot. But I had a battery question (below).


So, I created my own first robot following the Start Here instructions. I was only able to get one picture:


I decided to upgrade the robot itself to look more presentable when i tried to show it off on my favorite website. I would also document this build, step by step.


1 Picaxe 28 project board

1 4 AA battery case from RadioShack

1 futaba s3003 servo

1 sharp ir sensor, attached to servo wheel

2 piece-of-crab DC motors from SolarBotics

1+ Red Stribe Jamaican Lager

To each piece-of-crap DC motors from Solarbotics, I've soldered a female jumper. I've also soldered header pins to my project board, for easy hookup/unhookup of motors and sensors.


Sensor hot-glued onto the servo wheel:


 I chose the RadioShack battery case because it had a handy on/off switch. I attached the piece-of-crap DC motors to the removable lid so I don't have to disassemble it to change batteries.


Attach a piece of paint-mixer stick on which to place the servo. A 25-cent plastic toy bubble works as the front wheel.

This leaves some "trunk space" under the power box, where i can tuck away all the extra the wires.


While tucking connecting the sensor and tucking the wires underneath, disaster struck. the terminal on one of the piece-of-crap Solarbotics DC motor broke. Off. All the way inside the housing:


.... which pretty much puts that motor out of commision until I can get a replacement. 

...To be continued ...



okay, so I haven't found new motors for these gears. Instead, I got a Tamiya twin gearbox. It looks so much different that it will end up being a new robot entirely. So this one is finished. Done for.

However, this project brought up a concern:


The 4 AA battery pack in the picture does not power my 28x project board. I've tested it; 5.25V. But when I connect it to the project board, nothing happens. At all. The first time I connected it, my picaxe got REALLY hot, really quick. So I disconnected it until I could figure out what was going on. I tried monkeying around with it again, and now it doesn't power the board. Any ideas why this would be?


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Your description said the PICAxe got hot, but was it actually the battery pack that got hot? I've got similar 4 AA packs, and had situations where the betteries get hot, causing the case to actually melt a little. This let the springs push out of place, causing them to loose consistant connection. Even the connector can heat up a wire to lose connection or cause a short within the pin housing.
The picaxe got hot when using the battery pack. about twice as hot as the motor driver chip. You could smell it. But it still works fine with a different battery pack.
Thats very strange, that one battery pack would work, while another doesn't. Only thing might be to check polarity, check which connection is positive on the non-working pack, and compare it to the connection on a working pack.
It was a polarity issue. Excellent!!!!