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Just made my first SMD soldering

Today I made my first SMD soldering. This is where I started:

FT232RL and SSOP28 adapter

And this is what I ended up with:

Done!

Looks pretty good to me. I haven't tested the chip in action yet so I can't tell if it survived the process. Following Sparkfun's SMD HowTo (http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/tutorial_info.php?tutorials_id=36) it took me about 30-45 mins from start to finish. I think I bridged every pin on the chip but solder wick really does miracles! If this thing works I have to say it wasn't that hard.

 


 

Update Nov 4, 2010:

It works like a dream, well almost. I had some issues with Picaxe 28x2 and data transfer from FT232R to 28x2 didn't work. It worked just fine to the other direction. I had problems with Picaxe 08M too but got it working after I started using pin 3 instead of pin 1 for serin command. I didn't read the manual very carefully for serxxx commands so it might just be a RTFM thing. With ATTiny2313 it works like a dream even at 250k baud.

Not much to say about it so I'll just post some pictures of finished USB Serial thingy. (Could do a new "Something else" but I'm feeling kinda lazy)


Testing with 08M, ProgEdit and Putty


Finished USB serial thingy


Finished USB serial thingy, another angle


Finished USB serial thingy, bottom side


Finished USB serial thingy doing its thing with ATTiny2313


ASCII characters 1-8 going to ATTiny and coming back at 250k baud speed.

That's about it.

 

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Really cool , I latelly tend to use "drag soldering" no soldering wick required, just plenty of flux, it's described in detail here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQXhny3R7lk

what kind of flux? like flux paste or something? Cause the video shows some sort of liquid he pours on the chip and pins before using the soldering iron, but i've always seen the soldering paste only.

oh i get it! Never seen it though. Thanks :=)

This should be no-clean flux for electronics soldering , I have this one and it works great:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_615224_-1

I think you should use something like FLUX-LP1/xxx fluxes in this link: http://www.tme.eu/html/EN/middle-active-fluxes-for-smd-soldering/ramka_6822_EN_pelny.html

So it's just liquid flux.

I have to check how these flux things work again when I'm going to try them. But for what I remember from the last time I read about them "no-clean" type is the one you probably want to use. It means no cleaning required after you are done soldering.  But, because I'm not familiar with these things you might want to have someone with experience to confirm this :-)

Pretty neat. I need to learn how to solder SOICs too as i'll need a bunch of em for my project. Was it hard to do that?

One thing i don't get though: the sparkfun guide says i can't use a soldering iron without temperature control.....i don't quite see the point of that.

Yes, you need temperature control, normal irons get far too hot when left, and then far too cold while soldering.

a much better way of hand soldering smt is like this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQXhny3R7lk

But your first smt experience went better than mine, I soldered the chip in perfectly, upside down.

"I soldered the chip in perfectly, upside down"

This made my day :-)

Thanks for the video link. I've seen some drag soldering vids but the vertical positioning was new to me. Look really easy on the vid (probably looks way too easy ;-). Too bad I didn't place flux and thin solder wire in my last order. I'll have to try that later.

And I just realized that I was a fool to throw away some old and/or fried electronics (PCs, printers, etc.) after harvesting (maybe) useful components. I could have used them for SMD soldering practice. I'll have to ask around for a new "guinea pig".

It wasn't hard at all. I have to admit that I was a bit worried about solders bridges I made (and I made a lot of them). But fear not, solder wick will fix it. Just take your time and if you have bridged every pin like me give your IC some time to cool down every now and then when you are fixing solder bridges.

I think that in this case temperature controlled soldering iron means that it has at least some fixed temperature that is good for soldering (it doesn't have to be adjustable). If your iron doesn't have any temperature control you can easily fry your ICs and destroy pads on the board with too much heat.