Big Motor Driver Done
***Update***
Well, it seems I might have smoked something. I am in the process of testing the motor driver, with a load, and using 2 motors. While my "B" channel seems to be working fine, the "A" channel seems to be stuck on. Not to mention, the FET driver sorta burned my finger when it was touched. All this and I have yet to blow my 20 AMP safety fuse! I'm letting it cool off a little and am going to try again. ---I am not looking forward to asking for "purchase authorization" from the wife for more parts!
What started as a simple question about running big motors has turned into 2 threads and over 110 posts.
What has come of this is wonderful submissions from BOA, GroG, Robologist, Krumlink with Rik and others filling in a bunch of gaps and disputing what everyone else has said. I have gleaned what I could from this firehose of posts and decided to go with the BaseOverApex/ Robologist plan. As an overview this is a high power motor driver with logic level inputs for PWM and "reverse", a FET driver chip and FET's for main power switching and 2 high power relays for reverse. Here is the original schematic from the second follow-up post "H Bridge Matrix":
BOA's Brilliant Hybrid H Bridge - Robologist Mod
| BOA's Brilliant Hybrid H Bridge - Robologist Mod | |
|---|---|
| Description | BaseOverApex's design of a great Hybrid H-bridge. The hybrid is a combination of relays and MOSFETs. The relays are for forward and reverse switching. The MOSFETS can accept a high frequency PWM for speed control. This design has been built (not just theory) and is currently powering one of BOA's great bots. Hopefully he will post a version of the PCB art - although it might be good to rework it so that the PIC is not part of the design, as others might be using different methods of control. |
| Original Author | BaseOverApex robologist |
| Built By | |
| Max Current | 15 Amps - limit by relay |
| Max Voltage | 12 Volts to 15 Volts |
| Build Time | 3 Days? |
| Pros | strong, low cost |
| Cons | not quicklyswitchable forward to reverse, limit by relay |
| Max PWM Frequency | |
| Features | reverse flyback diodes, MOSFET driver |
| Parts List | Desig Qty Part# Each Total Dist Description |
| Schematic | |
| BreadBoard | Image:M relayhp B.jpg |
| Gerber | Image:M relayhp gerber.jpg |
I bought all the parts on the list above, all from Digikey, with the addition of some blank 2oz copper PCB boards and were quite happy when my parts arrived within 3 days!

Next, using PCB123 layout software (which is not only free, but worked quite well) transposed the schematic into a PCB layout. In general, I was able to keep most + runs to the outside and - to the inside. I think I did pretty well, only needing 6 topside jumpers. I must admit, it was a nightmare to keep all the componant's polarity straight as I went as things are mirrored or double mirrored (depending how you think about it) in terms of the top side of the board, bottom side and the fact the transfer is reversed when applied to the board. The picture below is of the final transfer I used.

This layout, printed with a printer using ink, was taken to my local copy-shop and Zeroxed as dark as it would go using a standard copier using toner. Next, I ironed the ever-living-shit of the transfer onto my blank PCB board. I was careful to go over each line one-by-one in addition to placing the iron over the whole transfer and putting my whole weight on it.
That would be:
140 Lbs
63.5 Kg
10 Stone
Happy that indeed the shit had been ironed out of it, I soaked-the-crap-out-of-it and then rubbed off the paper.

With a little scotch-brite (green scratchy pad (for dishes)) I removed the toner from the circuit lines, drilled and soldered away. The tiny little drill bit came from a model airplane shop, chucked-up in a dremel tool and was done by hand. Also, when setting the parts I seemed to run into a big phatty problem with the layout of the diodes. If you run into the same problem, well, here you go.

As you can see, I did have a few issues with some lines bumping each other but a cut-off wheel in a dremel and a very steady hand, I was able to tidy up everything.

And here she is!
Here you can see all the parts, the 2 green LED's are tied to the PWM input while the red LED's light with reverse.
Once again, much love and thanks to all who helped with this project. At the time of this post (and the video included) is of my first -low current- test. I hope to have some new videos up soon including this unit running the 2 DeWalt drill motors it was built for!





@ Sat, 2010-08-28 16:21
voltage regulators?
If those TO-220 devices to the right of your main pic are voltage regulators in parallel, then you could have a problem there. Since the regulators aren't all exactly the same, the reg with the lowest threshold will take the full load until it burns out, and then the next lowest keyed reg will take the full load and so on.
High Current voltage regulation
If this is not the case then forget i said anything, it's too late in the night for me to read this massive page.
@ Fri, 2010-08-27 20:32
10amp motor control circuit
i want to make a 10 amp motor control circuit just want to be able to drive it in both the direction two motors and ten amperes per motor any ideas pls help
@ Sat, 2009-01-24 16:46
So is this the driver you're
@ Mon, 2008-11-17 20:41
Nice one!
@ Thu, 2008-11-06 08:45
Fet protection
I was reading what's happened so far and looking at the FET driver data sheet. I don't think gate protection is your problem although an 18V zener diode on each gate won't hurt.
What frequency are you switching at?
@ Sun, 2008-11-02 22:26
How big of a resistor?
@ Sun, 2008-11-02 22:47
As above, or maybe a little more
@ Sun, 2008-11-02 19:48
Politics and Diodes...
Well, I really didn't mean to start anything with the McCain comment and don't want to get into anything here. It seems that here in the States things are SO polarized that we are all simply black or white, right or left or a 1 or a 0. I miss the middle. Again, I won't get into why I like my guy, maybe we should just use the dinner table rules.... No politics or religion. Or at least keep it confined to the Politics thread.
Bottom line: It would SUCK to loose any of my robot homies over something as silly as economic theory. Protection diode conversatinos are MUCH more important.
And in terms of diodes, I checked out the TVS diodes mentioned above. These seem like nifty little "surge protectors". I think Big Motor Board 2.0 should include them. I am really suprised how sensitive these FET's really are! When I was/am working with them, I was sure to ground myself out before touching them and tried to keep the soldering iron as cool as I could. It is suprising that something that can switch 50 Amps can be killed by a "carpet spark"! At anyrate, I really do think it was killed by some sloppy code and a "too quick" reverse while testing. I was using a ramp-up/ ramp-down chunks of code, I think it could have been as simple as a missed "pause". I am testing some new code using this guy which uses the same PWM/ out pins that I am using on the big bot. When my replacement parts get here I should have some solid, FET-friendly code to run. If I keep frying stuff on the second run, maybe some more protection will be in order...
@ Sun, 2008-11-02 16:08
Thanks, guys
I really dunno what happened, I think I have fixed the problem, though... Last night I ordered 4 new FET's and a couple new drivers. If nothing else, I should now have a few on hand for future problems.
Then again, the order will arive AFTER tuesday, so in reality, John McCain might be president and the world will simply end and we won't have to worry about fried FET's... Just nuclear holocaust... Either way I guess I got it covered.
@ Sun, 2008-11-02 18:44
Version 1.1
Hi Chris,
You might want to consider a TVS Diode for protection - I've been looking at osmc for a little bit and they appear to have this kind of protection around their FETs. Perhaps a bigger cap to attempt to smooth out some of the shock of inductance?