Let's Make Robots!

My First Bot missing a cable for the Sharp IR sensor

I found what I think is a matching cable on DFrobots under Arduino sensor parts as a Cable for Arduino Analog Sensors. It looks like the right cable. It is 3 pins with a JST type connector. It is the best fit I can find since Solarbotics no longer ships the IR Sharp Cable with the unit. DFrobots sells the same IR sensor with the cable and that cable matches the Arduino Analog Sensor Cable and the Sharp part number as “JST -3 Sharp” for the cable.

IR ranger cable is “GP2D12” or “JST -3 Sharp” on Solarbotics and DFrobots

Please correct me if I am wrong.

This is a very cheap, but very good robot kit and you do save more than $20 over just the basic parts.

I hope this helps

CORRECTION The cable is(if I had looked at the image closer) is the Digital sensor Green(S) - Red(+) - Black(G) the analog is Red(+) - Black(G) - Blue(S) and the order is wrong Servos are S - + - G. This sensor uses the Servo standard. The docs I see have the 4 pin connector. The Kit sensor has 3 pins.

I am learning.

I did think this was a simple project and I went off to do it my way.

The Cables

IR Sensor Sharp come with the Kit is Red Black White(picture from the kit instructions)

Analog Sensor Cable is Red Black Blue

Digital Sensor Cable is Green Red Black

Standard Servo is        Signal Red Black

Too many uses for the cables.

And the documents are not up to date for everything.

Sorry

The Analog Arduino cable is the right one.

DFRobots was very nice and changed my order.

I hope they are nice again and change my order back. They throw in three analog cables for me.

If they fix my older I will have 30 analog cable. They come in sets of 10 for $6.

Anyone want to buy an analog cable from me?

Non of the cables acutely work!

The JST connector --------------------- The board connector

Sharp Ranger(key bar)

1 singnal, 2 Ground, 3 V+

Arduino Analogue

1 Blue, 2 Ground, 3 V+ ------------- [ Signal | Ground | V+ ] The Ground and the Signal need to be moved

Arduino Digital

1 Green, 2 V+, 3 Ground----------- [ Ground | V+ | Signal ] Standard Servo everything must be moved

I am working on a graphic picture to show this.

You can easily use a x-acto knife to slip under the lock tab where you see the contact in an openning. They look like little fingers. Gently insert the x-acto blade just under one of the tabs and gently pull the connector out. Do not bend the tabs back or they will break off. The clip holding the contact in is less than the thickess of the x-acto blade. Holding the connector in a vise helps. Be gentle and connectors of all types will can make your projects much more fun and creative.

Anyone want the buy my extra Analogue cables?

Some Instructions:

All I have is Microsoft live with SkyDrive. I get the link but nothing happens. I need help to upload anything.

The files are attached

AttachmentSize
analogue1.JPG73.95 KB
digital1.JPG57.79 KB
analogue_Pins1.JPG39.33 KB
analogue_Pins_2.JPG45.63 KB
analogue_Pins_4.JPG36.71 KB
JST_pins_1.JPG32.47 KB
JST_pins_7.JPG50.44 KB
JST_pins_8.JPG38.11 KB

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If you are still needing a cable, I happened across this listing:

http://www.junun.org/MarkIII/Store.jsp#

About a quarter of the way down the page, there are a couple cables (at $1.10 USD each -not sure how much for shipping), that say they fit Sharp sensors. One fits all Sharp three-pin sensors and the other fits the four-pin sensors.

In fact, here is the one for three pin Sharp sensors: http://www.junun.org/MarkIII/Info.jsp?item=38

 

As my education keeps growing I thought it would be nice to share some things I have found out about those pesky little connectors that connect our ideas. Tip entry Connector Magic. But the picturs are here. I am learning your systems. How do you put in a link to a blog or tip into other other?

You can add a link by highlighting a word.

The 'chain' and 'broken chain' icons will light up when you have highlighted a word. Click the 'chain' and a new window will appear.

Paste the URL to the page you want into the first textbox and then click insert, lower left.

I attached the files Showing how to pop out the pins on most of the connectors to swap wire positions.

I did not have fun waiting for a female to male jumper set that you need for the Picaxe boards and finding out that non of the cables acutely work.

The cable looked right. But a closer more relaxed look showed me the wires were wrong.

Sorry I am new to some of this stuff.

I will look for the correct docs for the Sharp 2Y0A02 F 61 with a three pin JST connector.

I think you are talking about these two cables from DFRobot:

In fact they both have the right JST connectors, so either will work fine, but you need to cut the cable in half and wire it correctly for the sensor and Picaxe board. The color of the wires is not important, just how you connect them. The Picaxe board is not wired in the way a standard servo connector is with Ground-Power-Signal. The analog lines are wired (from the outside of the board inward) as Power-Signal-Ground.

Just look carefully at the picture in the start here tutorial and make sure you connect your sensor that way. If you reverse power and ground for the sensor, you will ruin it nearly instantly.

I didn't know about ALABTU and the discount and the LMR donation.

I was also in need of a cable for my Sharp IR sensor, so I soldered wires on, adding insulating sleeves on each.

I used wires from a phone cord, since I know they are designed to allow thousands of flexes before fatigue-breaks occur. (The only oddity is that the colors are a bit screwy, but just ignore that. As long as I hook them to the right pins on the main circuit board, all will be fine. The fact there is a green there, should remind me to double-check the wiring.)

I also ground off the "ears", the tabs which allow screw mounting, since I was not using them and did not need them sticking out there.

I realised that the black which would normally be ground should have been on the middle pin, so after this picture was taken, I unsoldered the green and black wires, reversed them and resoldered them.  Now white and black are correct and the green is the same as the power wire (normally red).  Less likely to make a wiring error now.

Yeah, that discount and others are listed at the very bottom of the LMR main page. Check it out!