Let's Make Robots!

Anyone using Thing-O-Matic 3D printer in LMR??

Yeah, you can LOL at this crap. This is what I got for first print "20MM cube".

Before I got the whole thing working there are so many detail I have to adjust. It has too many versions on parts and instruction is every where. However, I got it to print out SOMETHING finally.

But this is the problem I have now: It didn't print out properly. The WIRE is way to thin and extruder head slightly contact the object while printing. I know it's probably something relate to Z-height but I have tried many ways to work around and none of them works. Hoping to have anyone who know what may cause this issue.

Thanks in advance to whom may help me on this!!

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Write every change you make in a notebook (or an excel sheet) and name your profiles.

Keep in mind that different colours need slightly different settings.

I name my profiles with "plastic type-color-step number" as in "ABS-black-step3". Use the notebook to note the values of the parameters. When a profile gives good result, make a copy and name it "plastic type-colour-OK" as in "ABS-Black-OK".

At first, modify the layer thickness to get good contact between layers, then use the procedure from the previous post.

Don't try to modify the layer thickness too much.


Yeah, I think I need to modify the pressure from stepmotor. gotta try that tonite.

I am not sur this will help, but I have a Makerbot with the Mk IV extruder and 3mm filament.

I have had good result with ABS, but not so great with HDPE.

This is how I calibrated mine with replicator v21.

First thing, check that all your axis are well oiled.

Next, select the following modules (and disable the others).

Carve, Bottom, Clip, Comb, Fill, Inset, Raft (though I don't use it much more), Speed, Temperature

Now, concentrate on these four parameters :

Layer thickness, flow rate, feed rate, width over thickness.

The first two parameters mostly depend on the machine, that is you won't have to change them a lot afterwards.

The last two are your main action points.

I started my calibration with these settings (ABS).


Carve\Layers From = 0

Carve\Layers To = 100000

Carve\Layer Thickness = 0.4 

Carve\Perimeter Width over Thickness = 1.5 

Fill\Diaphram Thickness = 0

Fill\Infill Width over Thickness = 1.5 

Fill\Infill Solidity = 1.0 (read further down)

Fill\Infill Perimeter Overlap = less than 0.25

Temperature\All Settings = for ABS, it is normally 220° but Mk IV extruder is not precise. I use 180°. Mk VI is supposedly much better.

Speed\Flow Rate = 255 (maximum)

Speed\Travel Feed Rate = 50

Speed\Feed Rate = 40 mm/s


Now select a full 20 mm cube. Don't use the wall only version.


The idea of the calibration is to work under the worst case. Extruder speed (flow rate) is maximum (255) and you will modify the feed rate and the width over thickness to get a "perfect cube", that is, not too much or too little plastic. Most important is the infill solidity at 100%.


Make a test run.


If you have too much plastic, increase the feed rate. If you have too little decrease it.

Adjust the layer thickness only if needed. Modify only one parameter at one time.

Work as much as you can with the feed rate at first.


Let me know if that helped.




I am actually confused about ABP or HBP I should use. I tried couple settings. Yes, it seems much better but still crap, I can smash the cube by 2 fingers. However, I think it's better than first time and I will keep trying on these settings. Thanks~

I think the only thing that differs between the ABP and HBP is that  ABP controls the motor on the conveyor belt. They are both heated build platforms so either one should work.

Sweet! Thanks a lot for such detail. I can't wait to go home and try it out! Thanks again and I'll let you know the result.

Beside, have you try 1.75 filament? MK7 cames out and I dono if its worth to upgrade it or not. Just wondering.

No I haven’t tried the 1.75 filament and probably never will as long as there are 3mm in stock. As far as I have seen there seems to be more problems with the thinner filament so I’m sticking with my 3mm. But you might have a look at the forum http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot

By the way, I have been using 3mm ABS from this guy http://www.ebay.com/sch/3d-printer-supply/m.html?_trksid=p4340.l2562 And as far as I can tell the quality is just as good as the one from Makerbot (or even better).
I have also bought some ABS from http://www.makergear.com/ but the black 3mm I got was useless. I think it was to brittle and I couldn’t get the stepstruder to pull it.

There is another thing you might look into. That is the alignment of the metal wheel that pulls the filament into the extruder.

Like you I built mine with the automated building platform. I later desided to take the belt off and added some of that yellow heat tape on the building platform. Now I have no problems printing raftless.

I might just have been lucky but my ToM with the MK6 StepStruder worked very good right out of the box. My first prints was not all that good, but when I changed over to Seinforge 35 everything got better.
I have not changed any settings on my printer except the Z parameter of the startup file. And I’m very satisfied with the quality. http://www.thingiverse.com/Geir/things/

So my advice would still be to check the build platform level, Z height (as the raft looks like it’s way too high). Check the movement of the XY axis and tension on the belts. And maybe read through the assembly manual one more time before you start fiddling with settings. The quality of your print should be way better than this before you start fine tuning it.

Hi Geir,

I think you were right about the power voltage on stepper motor. I have bought MK7 and haveing the same issue. The filament comes out from extruder either stucked or came out very weak.

Do you know anyway to improve the power supply for filament extruder?