Making PCB's the inkjet way
@ October 31, 2011
Hi all,
Yes you read the title right, I'm going to describe here the method I used to create the above PCB using an INKJET printer.
Prerequisites:
1. Inkjet printer - I've used a HP Officejet 8000 I own but I'm fairely positive it would work with any inkjet as long as it's got 600 dpi resolution
2. High quality inkjet paper - With the printer they also delivered 50 sheets of "HP printing paper" this is what worked best in terms of black ink covering the paper not sure how to explain it better. With low quality printing paper the black areas get lots of little white dots due to paper pores, also the black is not very uniform. If the paper you use has these issues get better paper.
3. Sun flower cooking oil
4. UV light source - My round neon desk lamp - and as a mater of fact most neon lamps do emit UV. If you have a real UV lamp that's even better
5. Photo sensitive cooper laminate - The ones I always used are positive I think so what ever get's exposed can then be removed.
6. A flat sheet of clear glass or a photo frame with glass window
7. Chemicals. I use Caustic soda for developing and ferric chloride to etch, use what ever you are confortable with.
How to:
1. Design the PCB in your software
2. Print the PCB on your inkjet printer highest quality settings for black, do not mirror the drawing print it as it looks in Eagle
3. After the ink is dry put some paper on your flat working area (desk in my case), put the print with the ink side down on it
4. Rub the back of the print gently with oil (I use a paint brush) until all printed area is covered, make sure to have it sink in. The paper will become transparent when impregnated. Do not over do it! Too much oil will not help.
5. VERY IMPORTANT: Use a tissue to remove any excess oil on both sides, make sure there are no oil puddles or drops remaining on the paper
6. Cut the PC board to size, remove the UV protection sheet
7. Put the printed paper ink side down on the PC board, then secure the glass sheet over them. If you have a photo frame remove the back, put the print on the inside of the glass, put the PCB next and secure the back.
8. Expose. With my desk light at 10 -15 cm above I expose for about 15 - 17 minutes. You will need to figure out your best exposure time and light height.
9. Develop and etch - As a developer solution I use lye - caustic soda - sodium hydroxide - dilluted to a concentration I have found not to destroy the circuit, just add until the exposed chemical goes off . To etch I use ferric chloride.
Done !
The board in the picture was done this way YMMV ;)
Note: It is possible that some inks used in printers might dissolve with oil so that might not work on any printer :/
@ Wed, 2012-04-25 15:14
Thanks Tin Head!!! I have a
Thanks Tin Head!!! I have a inkjet and now I can maufacture my own PCB just because of you.........
This is a post that I have to collect or leave the site.
Thanks again!!!
@ Wed, 2012-04-25 15:25
Sure hope it ...
... works for you.
@ Thu, 2011-11-03 19:37
Not knocking
TH,
I for one am not knocking the idea as I have had the problem with poor transparency material, I did go digging as i said and found the old stock i had (which I would not have remembered if it was not for this thread) Having spent most of my life traveling around in less populated /commercial places I do know what it is to have to "get inventive" and be appeciative of others work around.Which is why I commented about the effective method you proposed in the first place.
@ Tue, 2011-11-01 13:48
One question
On a homemade PCB like this, wouldn’t it be better to drop the copper pour completely and if possible go for bigger traces?
@ Tue, 2011-11-01 14:51
Well
1. Dropping the cooper poor will lead to longer etching times, more etching solution wasting and possibly increased noise in the circuit. Using a ground plane is recomended in most designs if I remember correctly and as a bonus it makes routing less complicated since you do not have to route the ground. I guess it's up to the maker to use it or not in the end.
2. Yes bigger traces could improve the final output but I had no issues with them as it is, the default width from Eagle. Of course if this would be a power design as in a driver I would have used traces of bigger width.
@ Tue, 2011-11-01 14:50
wider traces not always better
Hi,
For a beginner the narrow traces may present a possible challenge not to "burn" the track when soldering. Wider under those circumstances would help . How ever too wide and imperfect etching could lead to shorts and in some cases "crosstalk" between tracks in higher freqency transmission situations. Also width is limited by the pin out spacing of the LSI's
I think it is a case of compromise on a personal level as to your own skills with what you have around you & TH has certainly utalised what he has around him better than I, with much the same bits on my desk.
@ Tue, 2011-11-01 13:24
Art board
TH & Salvage,
The transparent ink jet material (good quality stuff) is hard to lay your hands on even here in London it requires buying personally (2 sets bought on line were poor, was using it for O/Head projection for my lectures).
The adhesive backed card as Sal. says is good providing the printer can handle cards "weight" and his tip on using clear adhesive Vynal (used for school book covering ) is cool I used it back when LETRASET was the buzz.
Be sure to cut it slightly under size or the edge will peal back in time if it is flush with the covered material edge.
Thanks for the tips keep up the good work while I and the Brat wait for the postman
@ Thu, 2011-11-03 04:37
Transparency
The transparency material is available here, (in the states), at any office supply store and is not at all expensive. I have a very cheap Brother all-in-one printer / scanner / fax, as well as a cheap Epson all-in-one and both handle the adhesive backed material with no problem. For years I manufactured a product and all the faceplates were done this way. It's quick, cheap, easy, and looks good. I have even made replacement overlays for membrane style keypads, (like for Radio Shack scanners) using this method and they look, (and work) as good as the original.
@ Thu, 2011-11-03 14:12
Yes there in the states ...
... you guys *can* find anything in the stores :) Assuming that's true for the rest of the world is a little egocentric.
Now to clarify:
Yes I know transparency would be better, I'm not impliying my method can beat that, as I have said I just wanted to share yet another method for folks like me who can't find or afford to pay overpriced prices for transparencies in their countries.
I had a good board out this way and wanted to share the method I used, I'm not forcing anyone to do the same.
@ Thu, 2011-11-03 09:21
Availability
Salvage,
I have a HP c5100 and that seems to do most things I need to do pretty OK.But I know the old epsom I had would baulk at anything over 100gram paper
, Good transparency stuff is around as you say but the Office stores are out on the main local hiway or 10 or so miles and now with my back injury getting there is a hassle, which is why I had tried web based sellers and came un-stuck with quality.
I have been in "the broom cupboard" and dug out the old stuff and have told the Brat to find some adhesive backed card/foil to try your ideas with face plates.
Thanx for sharing & keeping my knowledge updated.