Let's Make Robots!

New Micro Magician V2

The new improved Micro Magician V2 is here! It has all the features you loved in the original Micro Magician but with an ATmega328P and improved power supply. The new black and yellow PCB looks great and is easier to read.

You can now download the manual from here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B__O096vyVYqUjNXVV9RMmFuNkk

Features:

  • Fully compatible with the Arduino IDE - board type: Arduino Pro or Arduino Pro Mini (3.3V, 8MHz) w/ ATmega328
  • ATmega328P processor running at 8MHz, 3.3V with 32K FLASH, 1K EEPROM and 2K SRAM
  • Input voltage from 3.6V to 9V
  • Built in LDO +5V, 1A regulator (input voltage must be at least 5.5V) to power external 5V devices
  • Built in LDO +3.3V, 500mA regulator 
  • Reverse polarity protection rated at 6A for protecting servos and motor driver IC
  • Reverse polarity protection rated at 3A for logic and other 3.3V devices
  • Built in USB using the CP2102 interface IC
  • Built in dual FET "H" bridge with current limiting, motor stall detection and electronic braking
  • Built in 3-axis accelerometer with 0G detection and selectable ±1.5G and ±6G ranges
  • Built in 38KHz IR receiver providing 128 virtual buttons when using the Sony IR protocol
  • 8x digital I/O pins terminated with 3 pin male header and selectable voltage for driving servos
  • 3 pin male headers on analog inputs to provide 3.3V power for sensors
  • 4 pin female communications header for 3.3V wireless transceivers (Xbee or Bluetooth)
  • ISP socket for bypassing the bootloader and programming the processor directly
  • Power, Rx, Tx, D13 and IR signal indication LEDs
  • Software library provides functions for IR decoding, angle / impact detection, DC motor and stepper motor control
  • Manual includes detailed information for library use and interfacing 5V devices

If you don't need the dual "H" bridge then you can put the motor driver into sleep mode and reuse D5, D6, D7 and D8 which have both male and female headers for easy interfacing.

The only pins not accessable are A0-A2 wich are dedicated to the accelerometer and D4 which is dedicated to the IR receiver.

Want More?
Rocket Brand Studios sell several robot kits designed to take this controller and has designed an Xbee shield for wireless uploads.

NOTE: 9V is the absolute maximum input voltage. Rechageable batteries can have an initial voltage higher than normal when freshly recharged. For example a 7.4V Lithium Ion battery will be 8.4V when fully charged.

The first video is of a QuadBot chassis being driven by the Micro Magician V2. It is powered by a single 3.7V, 900mAH Li-Ion battery the size of an AA battery.

The second video shows a robot arm I made for my son from K'nex parts and the Chinese copy LOZ. The main drive motors have just had the built in switch removed and are connected directly to the Micro Magician motor outputs.

The arm motors have all had circuits from dead servos installed to make them into continuous rotation servos. These just plug directly into the servo connectors on the Micro Magician.

The whole robot is powered by 4x AA NiMh batteries and controlled with a TV remote. Because I did not mount the controller in a good position to receive IR signals I used an external IR receiver on an Analog input and told the microM library to use that receiver instead of the built in receiver. It would also be possible to read the two receivers independantly.

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As Andrew has said, until you post your own forum providing us with more information about your project then it is hard to say. Assuming you make a Quadbot with 8 servos (2 per leg) then your going to need at least 4.8V for the servos so a single Lithium cell is out.

4x NiMh cells will give you a 4.8V and run everything happily.

5x NiMh will give you 6V which will give your servos more power and give yo a regulated 5V output as well.

Do not bother with alkaline batteries, they go flat very quickly under the heavy load of servos. From here on you should start a forum to ask questions concerning your project.

Power requirements depend on your robot. How many high current items will you be running? I'm talking about things like servos and motors. 

Perhaps you should post some info on your robot in the forums and ask help there. That way you can provide enough information for people to understand your needs, without cluttering up this post.

Yeah will do

Yes, indeed.

Rocket brand studios will have this guy in stock and ready to go in the the coming weeks as well as some new designs and chasssis built around this and the MicroM Classsic. A post will be made when the become available.

Watch this space.

Very cool.  Is it going to sell for the same price as the MM v1?

 

Sorry, no.

The ATmega328P has twice the memory and is more expensive than the ATmega168PA plus you now have an extra regulator and some greatly improved reverse polarity protection that can handle bigger servos.

When you compare the cost of this board compared to an Arduino Pro + 3-axis accelerometer breakout board + motor sheild + FTDI USB interface + IR receiver breakout board then you will see how cheap this board really is.

Not to metion that the first time you accidentally coonect the battery the wrong way, all those sheilds and breakout boards are fried.
The Micro Magician just sits there and waits for you to connect the battery the right way - no damage done.

Looks like a beautiful peice of work.

If your looking for a low voltage controller for a small robot then this is hard to beat. Now you can use a single Li-ion cell to drive your whole robot!

If you do happen to use some 5V sensors then use any battery with a voltage from 5.5V to 9V and you've got a regulated 5V rail as well.

Yeah, I'm thinking the next board I buy for a robot will be this one. I'll buy though RBS if Chris is going to carry them.