Let's Make Robots!

Again: Hardware not found on COMX


I'm writing here, because i have been reading a lot of topics, and I can't still solve my problem (Sorry for my English... I'm not native).


I have a PICAXE-28 Starter Pack with the AXE027 usb and the PIC16F886 chip

Also, I have 3 AA batteries 1.5V (non-rechargable)

All of these items were bought in PICAXE:


The topics that I have read are:








Well, my "issue" is: I cannot download any code to chip.

I decided attach some pictures... So, you can see what I mean.

Ohhh, almost forgot... My OS is Windows 7.


Version Board


Version Board

Program Editor PORT

Device Manager PORT


Batteries test

Battery test


Plug Test (usb port test + led ON)

usb plug on


Plug Test (usb port test + led OFF)

usb plug off


Download circuit test

usb circuit off


Download circuit test (zoom)

usb circuit zoom


Pins test (following picaxe manual instructions: "TEST ON ACTUAL CHIP V+ and 0V pins with a multimeter")

(Pin # 8 - Ground ) // (Pin # 20 - Positive)

test pins on


Pins test (zoom)

test pin zoom


The Picaxe manual (pdf) says:


Download Checklist

PICAXE microcontroller

• Is the correct PICAXE chip correctly inserted in socket (I think it's ok)

• Is a PICAXE chip (not blank un-programmed PIC chip) being used (I think the website would not fool me, right?).

• Is a damaged PICAXE chip being used (chip has had over-voltage o reverse power supply applied) (I think it's ok, I always use

3 AA batteries alcaline 1.5V non-rechargable)

• Is a smooth 4.5V to 5.5V DC supply correctly connected. TEST ON ACTUAL CHIP V+ and 0V pins with a multimeter! (I think it's ok, the last 2 pictures show that)

• Is the reset pin connected to V+ via 4.7k resistor (18 / 28 / 40 pin chips)       (I don't know)

• Is the correct 3 pin resonator connected if required (28 / 40 pin chips)        (I don't know)

• Are the serial download 10k/22k resistors correctly connected.         (I don't know)



I have installed the usb controller, about two times... one from CD (.zip) and one from file of picaxe website (.exe).

I will hope that anyone can help me.




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Oops nevermind,

I didn't see you that the code has found the COM port. 

You are probably fine on your driver installation then.  Sorry for not paying closer attention.

I think I know what your problem is.  When you go to download the driver for Windows it normally puts you on the driver for Windows XP.  For the many variations of Windows this would normally not be a problem, but they made BIG CHANGES for Windows 7 and so the Windows XP driver doesn't work.

Computer programming is my job and it took me 2 or 3 hours one night to figure this all out.  My first mistake is I used their auto installer which loaded the unsigned driver. It took a while to realize that an unsigned driver was the problem, then I went off trying to figure out how to force Windows 7 to accept an unsigned driver. A few hours later, I checked the PICAXE web site again and discovered the SIGNED DRIVER and I downloaded that.

Now I am going to win right? Uh...no....

I loaded the driver, but you have to go back and also load the virtual COM port driver. (Basically you load drivers twice to make the cable work). As it turns out this is covered in their documentation, which I read closely then ignored after having the first problem.

After I loaded the driver for the virtual COM port suprise it worked.


Try this link:


According to their revision history v2.08.14 is the one you want.  Once you get it installed you have to load it twice, once to load the driver and once to configure the virtual COM port.

I hope this works for you, the Windows 7 vesion is a pain.



I had a few problems like this myself recently.... have you tried:

Make sure that reset button isnt depressed

Removing the Chip, and Re-Inserting the chip, being absolutely 100% sure all the pins are seated correctly and the chip is the right way round. There is a little semicircular dimple on one end of the chip. There is a matching dimple on one end of the socket.

Reset switch Look at http://letsmakerobots.com/node/75, See where PICAXE28 is written on the board, and to the right of that there are 2 holes labelled R. Thats for the reset switch. Anything there? Any stray solder etc?

Voltage Pin. Above where it says R there are 3 pins. If you are looking at the board with PICAXE28 nearest to you, the left and middle pins should be jumpered to link V1 and V2. 

About the chip... I think it's well placed considering google's photo (showing the board + chip).


Reset switch: Nothing strange in 2 holes. Don't have any solder, but it have red plastic cover.

Voltage pin. The jumper is well placed (between left and middle pins)

How can I test / know if:

1. The Board it is working and not damaged?

2. The Chip PIC16F886 it is working and not damaged?

Could I test both of them separately? but not electricaly, I mean with motors or servo or led or protoboard?

Can I do that?

have you selected the right micro controller  in the picaxe program

I have selected Picaxe-28x1 / 40x1

"A picaxe-28x1 chip is marked PIC16F886"

I don't really think this is the problem, but the voltage shown on the next to last picture shows 4.4 volts on the chip, and the spec says 4.5 to 5.5.  It would be worth trying brand new, unused alkalines to check that.  When perfectly fresh alkaline batteries (non rechargeable) have a voltage about 1.65 instead of 1.5.  Some chips are very sensitive to proper voltage.  I don't know about the ones on your picaxe board.

I tried a few seconds ago, with 3 new batteries AA alcaline.

Test clip battery = 4.95V

Test pins PIC16F886 = 4.90V

It show the same message "not found".