Has anybody connected their picaxe to a RadioShack 276-640? Its the IR reciever module you can pick up at any store ... and the only one I have access to.
I set it up with the same circuit shown in JKlug's walkthrough, but no lcuk
Ok i need another precision, should i replace the 330Ohm resistor by a piece of wire, or completly get rid of that connection? (i think it's the second option, but i'm really not sure)
[Edit] I thought it'd be harmless to try, so i tried, and actually none of the solutions work... without the wire, the value stays tuck at 109, and with the wire at 246... and i'm pretty clueless right now Ô_ö
Replace the 330 with a wire, the device needs to be powered by 5 volts. Pin 1 will always read high due to the 4k7 pull-up, until it "sees" a 38kHz IR signal coming in, then it will go low for that signal.
Pin 1 should be signal, pin2 should be ground, pin 3 should be power (+5), according to the link above.
"Pin 1 will always read high due to the 4k7 pull-up, until it "sees" a 38kHz IR signal coming in, then it will go low for that signal."
Ok... i thought it was like a LDR, i assumed the more IR, the higher the value... so i tried with a lighter and of course, nothing...
I'm not sure my IR LED is 38kHz (got it in an old remote), but thank you very much!!!
You can make a simple 38khz setup with your picaxe, a npn transistor, a resistor and ir emmiter.
collector connects to 38khz carrier.
base connects to serial signal pin you want to send from.
emmiter connects to the resistor and emmiter that ends at ground.
Use: PWMOut 3, 25, 52 to generate the 38.4 kHz carrier. on the collector pin
use the "serout BasePinX N1200_4 Data" command for your serial transmission. base pin
loop this every 1 second and verify that you are getting a sig out via a digital camera or video camera.
pwmout value is taken from the following site: http://www.phanderson.com/picaxe/ir_1.html
Thanks a lot, i knew i had to ask ^^
I'll give a try tonight!
were they sony remotes? Do you have another picaxe you can connect an IR led to?
If you only have one picaxe, connect an IR LED to it and send IR code. Connect an ordinary LED to the output of the reciever. You will at least see the led light up when you send code via the picaxe. If you also get the LED to light up with a remote then that should be a 38Khz remote.
I think that as long as the reciever picks up something that it would cause the output to change. The carrier freq shouldn't really matter unless you are trying to decode something.
edit: After doing some reading, I may have lucked out and all of my remotes were using 38k carriers.
As far as testing is concerned, i've seen a lot of ir receivers that have active low signals so connecting an led to the output would have the led on when not recieving anything. You can use a pnp transistor(2N3906 works) to switch this around so you only get the led to blink when recieving a signal.
I would keep the axe out of the equation until you actually get the reciever working. Most every tv/av device remote should work for testing(at least in my exp).